1) General changes and remarks
My "expenses file" will show you that at least during the "tourist (gringo)
season", prices given in US$, did increase in Guatemala, compared to what Lonely
Planet wrote in its 1991 guide book. The difference can be sometimes
important, but Guatemala remains one of the cheapest countries of Central
America. A third of the tourists in August were native french speakers,
among a lot of europeans : american tourists are not so numerous since
the big killing of US tourists on the Pacaya volcanoe in 1991, but backpackers
and young people studying spanish in Antigua or
Xela.
2) Post & Telecommunications
As international phone calls are quite expensive, use the services of "call-back"
companies : there are many in Antigua, in Xela
and Panajachel. Do use them as you will not find this possibility in all
countries of Central America.
3) Dangers and annoyances
There are still Human Rights organizations active in Guatemala, which means
that human rights are not fully respected in that country. Unfortunately
this is still true, but tourists make a really big fuss about it (fearing
about their own security): foreigners are not often directly concerned
by local troubles. The guerilla is said to be responsible for the very
few attacks on tourists, but everybody knows that the army, and former
army members are sometimes the guilty ones. Comon sense and logical caution
should be enough to let you go back home safe and well.
4) Things to buy
This is the place for shopping, if you look for handcrafts. Do not hesitate
to bargain. You could buy all the clothes you need there (+ hammocks, and
so on …), and get off the plane with an empty backpack. Everything is really
cheap : you will not find cheaper but in Honduras.
5) when to go ?
Guatemala should be visited during any time of the year but August, for
the behaviour of the people is very much modified, by the fact that there
are many tourists. You might be considered as a wallet, and not as a human
being in many places. Guatemala citizens probably assume (and that's right!),
that they have to make enough money, during that short period of time,
for living at least half of the rest of the year…
Anyway, this is not true everywhere, because some places do not depend
so much on tourism for the local economy : Antigua
is always crowded with young north american people studying spanish there
; Quetzaltenango (Xela) is in the same situation
; Guatemala city is too big a town for tourists
to be considered as important economic beings (so no special treatment,
apart of petty crime).
6) Specific changes and remarks
Guatemala city :
The pension Meza is typically the average
good choice given by the former edition of "Central America on a shoe string".
Really friendly and helpful, crowded with backpackers gathering for exchanging
informations, and resting one or two days in the patio. US$ 5,5 a double
room, half for a single bed and a private cupboard (to lock your backpack
in), in a room for three people.
Considering that Guatemala city "is not a very nice place", and that
two days are more than enough to visit it, extra-stayings should be spent
in Antigua as it is so close to the capital city
(a one hour bus ride).
Buses to San Salvador (El
Salvador) :
The Melva company is now located in 3a Avenida 1-38, tel (2) 31 08
74, in Guatemala city.
Antigua :
This is one of the most beautiful "spanish colonial styled" cities of all
central america, and must be visited properly. The "Casa Popenoe" is one
of the best examples of that style and should be systematically visited
(most people don't even notice it in their guide books, and miss a deep
sight inside the past daily life of the people who made the colonial history
of the continent.). Organized tours on the Pacaya volcanoe (with about
20 people) are safe enough, and are worth the effort.
A very good hotel choice in Antigua, was not mentionned in the former
edition. Most people who choose the "Pension Meza" in Guatemala
city, stay in the "Posada Ruiz" (be
careful : there are two hotels in the city with that name, one is good,
one is bad). This hotel is located in the 2a calle Poniente, between the
6a and 7a avenidas norte (southern sidewalk). No name or particular sign
outside, but the door under an "arch of stones". US$ 2,9 for a private
room (shared bath) for a single, with a big sunny courtyard.
Chichicastenango :
If you do not make a reservation in a local hotel, make sure to arrive
early in the day, on market days, during the "tourists season" : on August
the 13th, the city was fully booked at 4 : 00 p.m..
Quetzaltenango (Xela) :
Many of the cheap hotels mentionned in the former edition of "Central America
on a shoe string" (some were still being built in 1991), are of a very
poor quality when it comes to cleanliness : make sure to check the bedroom
and bathroom before you make a decision and pay.
The city being at a high altitude (as well as Chichicastenango),
the climate might seem much fresher and rainy than elsewhere. So that's
one of the very few places where you might appreciate a sweatshirt or a
jacket, and even trousers.
Tikal :
The entrance fee to get in the park used to be of US $ 2.00, and now is
of US $ 5,45 (30 Quetzales). Anyway this park is said to be the most beautiful
and interesting mayan site of all Central America, and visiting Tikal will
make a visit to Iximche (Guatemala) or Copán (Honduras) worthless.
I agree with that point of view.
Livingstone :
"Las siete altares" are worth the half hour or hour walk (acording to your
path).
There are banks in Livingstone now, and the exchange rate is normal.
Contact : 
or www.metey.com
CENTRAL
AMERICA - GUATEMALA (also check my expenses
data)